Since it is always about the puppies and their successful transition we have developed a feeding schedule that has turned out very well for our buyers.

     We follow what we call the "10 Minute Rule". Upon waking in the morning, take your pup directly outside and give them ample time to eliminate and frolic. Once that is accomplished we like to feed them breakfast. They have 10 minutes to eat and drink all they want. Once the 10 minutes is over remove the food and water. Obviously you need to give water if you have been playing outside and your puppy is hot.

Just remember:
If we can monitor what goes in we can supervise what comes out.

     The feeding schedule is essential to successful potty training. Your pup may be fed again at dinner time. Try not to feed any later than 6:00 pm. This gives your pup ample time to completely eliminate before crating at bedtime. If we feed on schedule then we can potty on schedule. Once everyone learns the routine potty accidents should be almost non-existent.

     We feed our pups in the morning and in the evening. We are on farm time here so we feed our animals just before dark. The puppies eat, play and then sleep. They practice resting until morning when feeding and play time starts all over again.

     We feed the horses first so that the puppies learn to wait quietly until it is their turn. This helps the puppies learn to stay quietly in their crates or day room at home. The pups practice this routine from the time they join the barn animals at 4 weeks of age. At 5 weeks of age the pups have learned to know when we are coming. They greet us by barking and yelling for about 15 minutes in the beginning. We purposely ignore the puppy’s cries and perform our other barn duties first. The pups go from yelling for 15 minutes to simply waiting their turn.

     It is important for our buyers to follow the steps we have set forth here. Everyone on the farm needs a turn to be cleaned and fed. We can't do it all at once so everyone waits. The pups learn patience during this part of their puppy kindergarten. It is designed to help our pups and buyers during the first few nights at home. We want the pups to settle and sleep quietly from day one with feeding and bathroom schedules set.



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     Since we are committed to giving each pup the best start in life that we can, we have developed our own Puppy Kindergarten program. Our Puppy Kindergarten begins at the age of 5 weeks and is complete at the age of 7 weeks when your pup is ready to go home. We teach our pups two very important skills: A) How to learn and B) a few basic commands that enable our owners to communicate with their pups right away.

     All our training efforts are once again geared toward the Transition Period. The first 72 hours to 10 days after arrival to the pups´ new home. It is also essential in our minds to set a strong foundation for our buyers to work from for future training. Each puppy should be sleeping through the night, eating and playing on schedule, gaining reliable potty etiquette and be mindful in the home and at the walk by the end of 10 days.

     We teach each puppy to: sit, stay down, wait, "ah ah", quit, no bite and nite nite. Your pup will know what each of these words means and will know how to obey them. It will be up to you to reinforce and remind your pup of these commands once everyone is home.

     We also ask for a name so that we may accustom your puppy to the sound before leaving. We want that name turned in by the beginning of the 5th week of age.

     We will go over these commands when you come to pick-up your puppy. We are here to help and will share our methods with you. Please feel free to call us for reminders once you get home. (540) 892-5646



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     Parvovirus is a mutant strain of feline distemper that attacks the dogs' stomach and intestinal tracts. It causes severe bloody diarrhea, vomiting, severe dehydration and eventually death. When puppies under 12 weeks old are infected, the virus can damage the heart muscle and cause lifelong cardiac problems.

     Parvovirus is extremely contagious and can be transmitted by any person, animal, or object that comes in contact with infected dog's feces or vomitus. The virus can survive extreme heat and cold for long periods of time and may remain alive on a surface long after excrement has been removed. There is a hospital strength viricide available that we like that can be used inside and outside the home to kill this disease as well as many others including many different types of bacteria and fungus’. If interested, please ask us about it. (540) 892-5646

     There are two ways you can protect your puppy from parvovirus. The first is to keep your puppy away from all public areas including parks, wooded trails, beaches and rest areas for the first 6 months. Puppies younger than 6 months of age that are infected with the parvovirus have a poor prognosis.

     The second most important defense to the parvovirus is a strong vaccination program for your growing puppy. Your puppy will receive its first vaccination here at 6 weeks of age. You will re-vaccinate your puppy again at 9 weeks, 12 weeks and 16 weeks. As your dog gets older, their immunity is maintained with annual booster shots.

     If your adult dog experiences vomiting, severe diarrhea, depression, or loss of appetite, see your veterinarian as soon as possible. Though there are presently no drugs to kill the virus, there are treatments proven to control its symptoms. Mature dogs have the greatest chance of surviving parvovirus.

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     All dogs go through what we call, "The Teenager Stage". Those of us old enough to have teenagers understands this stage. Our pups are the same way!

     You will proudly leave Shalgo Setters with your beautiful, smart, leash trained puppy and life will be grand…. Until your pups turns about 16 weeks old or so. That's 4 months of age in short cut terms.

     By now your puppy is house broken, sleeping all night, on a reasonable am/pm eating and sleeping schedule and is coming when you call. Life should be good ! Til now. You take that smart pup outside to potty one frosty morning and immediately you discover that your pup won't come to you and is now trying to capture the kids at the bus stop 4 houses down ignoring your please.

     Time for a choke chain and a long line. Teenager training has just begun !! The choke chain and long line may be purchased at Wal Mart. We like the 10 foot 1 inch wide cotton web rope.

     Everytime your teenager goes outside they must be sporting their choke chain and dragging their rope. One cannot catch a teenager Shalgo puppy. BUT, you can catch the rope. Twice during your outside potty sessions, when you have time, you will quietly pick-up your rope and jiggle it while commanding your pup to come. We follow the "3 Strike Rule". On the third ignored command to come you will firmly pull your pup to your feet while commanding "Come". Please always say your pups name first to get their attention before asking for anything.

     You're pup will scream and act like he's strangling but as soon as he learns to stop fighting the rope your pup will be easier to communicate with. Once your pup reaches your feet, place them in the sitting position and tell your pup "Good Come" and "Good sit". Drop your rope, turn around and ignore your pup. After your pup has forgotten you and is off playing repeat this exercise. You will play the "come" game for the next several months. During this time we are also teaching our dog what we call personal range. This is the distance we like our dogs to stay while we are in open fields on walks. It also helps determine ranges in the hunt field.

     We like the bird delivered to our feet. It is correct and this exercise lays the foundation for that skill should it be necessary to learn in the hunt field.

     It is a proud moment when one day you are once again practicing the come command and all at once your pup stops what he is doing and comes to sit at your feet. That is a moment all setter owners want to experience. Once this happens, practice the come exercise for 7 days more. If your pup is perfect every time he is called then he is ready for off leash testing.

     Long line attached, go to an open field. See what happens. If your dog comes each time for a week then try off leash. If your pup fails off leash, go back to practicing all over again with the long line and come in 7 day increments. Repeat until your pup is solid. Your Setter will be perfect when he reaches the age of 2 years. Until then they become more reliable with each passing month but they are not steady. It takes 2 years for the Setter to mature.

Please call us at anytime for support or reminders. We are happy to assist you and your pup. (540) 892-5646

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     We believe crate training and quiet time in the Day Room is essential to the well being of your puppy/dog. Because we bond so deeply with our pups, we find that they do suffer from separation anxiety. However, we have a solution !

     There will be times when you cannot or do not want to supervise your pup. These are the times you can practice your puppy being alone. Give your pup ample time to romp outside. This gives them a chance to potty once or twice and run around long enough to get tired. Once this mission is accomplished you may put them away. Be sure you have a pig ear and chew bone in their area. Day Room or crate. Leave them and don't go back. Put your hands over your ears if you must. Shut the door but leave them to work it out alone. Go back no earlier than 30 minutes after your pup is quiet.

     The puppys' learn here that sometimes we are around and sometimes we are not. Sometimes when we are around we are working horses or doing farm work and not available to play with them This is when the pups learn that everyone gets a turn and they learn to wait for theirs. Your puppy will learn to wait his turn at home as well if you follow the steps. Our pups are quiet while waiting. They learn to play by themselves. This is important should you ever need to kennel or hospitalize your pup.

     As a vet tech for years I have seen dogs come into the practices and become so depressed that on occasion we have had to give fluids and force feed. We do not want this to happen to our dogs so we condition them to learn how to be alone. Practice this when you cannot or do not want to handle your pup. Just be sure they have had a chance to run off their energy and potty before confinement.



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     We have great confidence in the value of crating or containing your puppy. We find that schedules, routines and rules facilitate a speedy transition for our pups into their new homes and families. We want the medium size Pet Taxi for airline travel. We find that these crates best mimic a dogs' den and the pups find familiarity with them due to their time spent at Shalgo in their own dog house in the barn. They usually adjust and settle well with them. Especially the first night when it is critical for all to go well.

     We like to start off with the crate in the master bedroom until potty training is complete. This should take about 10 days if everyone is committed to the program. Puppy must have ample time to eliminate before going into the crate and immediately upon coming out of the crate. HAND CARRY your puppy outside. Do not let them walk or they will make a mistake before getting outside. The same rule applies for the Day Room. The crate helps to facilitate the house training and sleeping schedule. Be sure your puppy has ample time to potty and run before confinement. A tired puppy settles best in the crate and day room.

     Do not put your pup to bed until everyone is ready for lights out. Once you have placed your pup in the crate for bedtime simply press your pup down and tell them "nite nite". They know what it means and should settle down fairly quickly. Turn off the lights, put your hands over your ears and wait it out. DO NOT get your puppy back out of the crate until he has gone to sleep first or you will never win this exercise.

     Somewhere in the middle of the night your pup will awaken to go to the bathroom. Quietly get your pup out of the crate and go to your nighttime potty spot. Keep quiet. Do not disturb your pup over much or they will want to play. Place your pup in its potty spot and give your command. Always say your pups name first to get their attention then give them the potty command. Once your pup goes to the bathroom tell them "Good Outside". Or whatever your potty command word is. Always tell your pup what they did right. (ie Good sit, Good outside, Good potty, Good no bite, Good down etc.)

     While waiting for the 2 am wee wee to come remember to be quiet, don't look, don't move and wait until they are finished. Once your pup has gone to the bathroom quietly place your pup back in the crate, press them down and tell them "nite nite" again. Your pup should quiet fairly quickly. DO NOT get them back out until they go to sleep first. One bathroom journey during the night should be sufficient if your have followed the feeding and potty rules.

     Be sure to make the whole crate their bed with a blanket that is easily cleaned. Also keep a pig ear and small chew bone in the crate with them. Place a pig ear and chew bone along with a few toys in the Day Room as well. Once your pup has mastered the sleeping schedule and house training, you may do away with the crate/day room if you wish.

Note: Some of our buyers graduate from the bedroom crate to a large wire crate to confine their dogs while family is away until the pup is a year old or more. The large crates come in very handy depending on your particular circumstances.

Call us if you need any reminders (540) 892-5646.

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     We recommend that our pups start off in a confined area. We find the kitchen works best in the beginning for eating and playing. The puppies can learn more quickly in a smaller area which facilitates the transition process and house training. The kitchen also offers a user friendly surface for cleaning up potty mistakes.

     Your puppy will make a potty mistake on the kitchen floor at least once before the house training process is complete. With that in mind, you will want to clean up the puppy's mess with a paper towel and place it just outside your "2 am" door. You will not want to wander the back yard in the middle of the night waiting for your puppy to potty. The potty spot in the flower bed or mulch can be moved away as the "sleeping through the night" and house training becomes more routine. The object of this exercise is to get your pup to potty quickly once he wakes in the middle of the first few nights at home. Handle this chore quietly. We do not want to wake puppy too far.

     When it is time for puppy to be unsupervised we suggest the puppy is placed in their crate or in their "Day room". We like to use the crate at bedtime and the day room otherwise. The day room can be a small bathroom with a baby gate or a mud room near the kitchen also gated. This "dayroom" keeps your pup from being in the crate everytime you cannot or do not want to supervise. Be sure puppy has worked off all energy and has had a chance to potty before confinement. Also include a pig ear, chew bone and a few toys with your puppy. Confinement teaches your puppy to stay and play alone. It is a crucial lesson in terms of avoiding separation anxiety with our bonded puppies.

     When your pup is free from confinement, it is essential that an adult be present to literally supervise the pup. Any potty accident will happen during free time and adults will be more likely to correct maters the quickest. This will greatly shorten the house training process. The goal of the potty training lesson to teach your pup that on this side of the door we are in our nest. (No soiling allowed) and on that side of the door, you are outside free to potty.

Please feel free to call for more information. (540) 892-5646.

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     The English and Llewellin Field Setters are scenting dogs therefore food rewards are ineffective. Once they smell the food training is over and listening is no longer an option.

     We at Shalgo hold the opinion that we as humans expect the animals to learn half human so therefore we expect the humans to learn half animal. In this case, Dog. With that in mind, we have learned the behaviors of the dogs, most importantly, the moms interaction with the puppies. We are "multi-animal" here at Shalgo. We have learned dog, cat and horse. The whole thing is fascinating and we have learned a lot about human nature through our interaction with the animals here. We will share whatever we can to help you and your puppy to do as well as possible and be easy to handle and understood.

     We have certain body language and touches that closely mimic mothers’ behavior. You will learn these techniques when you come to pick-up your pup. These few techniques will be all that is necessary to comfort, reward and discipline your puppy/dog from here on out. Explain what you want and insist that your dog agree. Take time if possible to watch The Dog Whisperer with Cesar Milan on TV. His insights are spot on.

     Our Setters want to please. They have gentle souls, keen minds and loyal, loving natures. These are some of the kindest dogs we've ever met.

     Please call us anytime if you need reminders regarding any of these techniques, tips, schedules or programs. We are always here to help our buyers and their puppies. (540) 892-5646



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     Chewing and scratching the body is the first sign of an allergic reaction to something environmental, systemic or dietary. Dogs have the same allergy-sensitive cells people have in their eyes and nose, but they are located in dogs' skin and ears. Therefore, dogs with allergies show signs of itchy feet, itchy skin and ear infections.

     Finding out what your dog is allergic to can sometimes be challenging. Dogs can be allergic to all kinds of things in their environment. For example, inside the home carpet fibers and/or cleaning or freshening solutions can cause irritation. Previous animals with skin allergies can leave residual spores in carpets that can cause a problem. Outside we have all the tiny pests that live in the grass as well as air born irritants. They can also be allergic to the ingredients in their dog food. Damp weather or recent bathing can and often does cause ear infections.

     The most common allergy dogs experience is a reaction to the flea bite often referred to as flea bite dermatitis. Even if your dog is protected against fleas by a collar or by topical treatment, one flea can secrete enough saliva in one bite to cause an itching frenzy in dogs that have become hypersensitive due to repeated insult from flea bites.

     If your pup has red irritated skin we recommend bathing your dog with Chlorhexaderm shampoo. This shampoo leaves a residual effect that lasts for three days. Bath your dog every third day for a total of three baths. The shampoo will help relieve and heal the irritated skin while you are treating your pup for flea allergy.

     In an effort to keep ear problems at bay, we recommend keeping a bottle of ear medication from your veterinarian on hand. An ounce of prevention is what we want with the ears. After bathing and drying simply squirt some medication in each ear and massage. This will prevent yeast infections in the ears due to dampness. Follow this protocol any time your dog gets into water or the weather is humid and damp for days.

     We recommend keeping your pup on the food we feed here. Purina One Puppy Chow and at one year of age change over to Purina One Dog Chow. We have found this product to be the most cost effective as well as nutritionally balanced for good bloom and growth. The most important thing to remember when choosing a dog food is to stay with a meat based formula. Grain based formulas often cause skin allergies or even stomach upset. The bag will state: "made with real ????". We prefer the chicken or lamb over beef as beef tends to cause upset likely due to the red dye that is used for coloring. DO NOT change flavors much less the brand of dog food. Any dietary changes with dogs will usually cause diarrhea. Monotony is the name of success here. If you prefer using a different type of dog food be sure you make your change gradually and be sure you stay with white meat-based products.

     If your dog has red skin and is itching: use the Chlorhexaderm Shampoo for soothing comfort and healing. Purchase the Adam's Flea-Off spray for the house and pet. It kills adult fleas and their eggs on contact and can be used on carpet, bedding and furniture. Adam's also has foggers and yard sprays if needed. This product is the most effective in killing the fleas and their eggs. Do Not use steroids if possible. Steroids suppress the animals' immune system which also impedes the process of healing and disease protection.

     We had an outbreak of fleas one year after purchasing a dog from another kennel. We simply sprayed the yard, kennel area and treated our dogs at once with the Adams products and haven't had a single flea problem since. We typically do not have fleas in our area. Ticks but not fleas. Simple treatment cured both.

Call us if you would like to discuss these topics further. (540) 892-5646.

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     Setters are by nature watch dogs. They will alert you of every single thing that happens in their environment if they can see it or hear it.

     Some of our dogs tend to bark more than others. We have gone through many steps with our breeding dogs in an effort to control our barking nightmare.

     The first two years we were in operation all the dogs came into our barn at night. Our girls slept in one area and the boys in another. Eventually after two years of bringing the dogs in the barn every night it got old.

     Our next solution was the barking collars. They deliver a controlled amount of shock each time the dog barks. We would charge them during the day and put them on the dogs at night. This worked out real well until the dogs learned how to chew them off and then chew them up. (We kennel our dogs in pairs) At $100 per dog collar we found barking collars to be a poor solution. The barking collars also rub open sores on the dogs' necks. Not an option for us.

     As a veterinary technician for many years I am aware of the De-barking procedure. To me, De-barking is like having a cat de-clawed. Do not ever do it unless it is absolutely imperative. Our case was just that.

     If you find that you and your dog are having a barking problem, then we have a suggestion or two that may help.

     Please note that these are high energy dogs that want to hunt everything they can. It is bred into them. With this in mind, please consider an outlet for their hunting needs. Like runs in and open field. Leash and/or shock collar in place. This helps alleviate frustration and the dogs come home tired ready to drink and rest. We also highly recommend De-barking if you find that you cannot live with your dogs' barking.

     We have debarked all of our breeding dogs. It is a simply procedure whereby a small tag of tissue is taken from each side of the vocal cords. It causes the dogs to sound hoarse. They still bark like crazy but at least you can live with it. We have had as many as 11 breeding dogs. They all bark whenever they feel like it. Morning, noon and night but at least we can sleep now since they have all been debarked.

     Not all veterinarians agree with his procedure and not many perform it. Do your homework to find a vet that performs debarking and has experience doing it.

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I invite you to visit my Veterinary Hospital and Staff. They have a large amount of useful information in their library.
Vinton Veterinary Hospital Library

Please visit. You may find a topic that applies to your situation...

Please call us if you need reminders. (540) 892-5646 regarding these techniques.



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